Mussels: filter-feeders and flavor

Which seafood improves water quality while it grows? Mussels (and oysters) can filter 20–50 gallons a day, which is why I love them as a sustainable pick; I steam 2 pounds for 5 minutes in a covered pot with dry cider and garlic and toss any that stay shut — what’s your favorite broth?

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I whisk a teaspoon of “white miso” into the pot off heat after the mussels open — it emulsifies the cider-garlic liquor and makes it silky; just go light on extra salt. If your cider runs sweet, add a quick squeeze of lemon to keep it bright. Ever tried that?

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I toss a smashed anchovy in with the garlic before the “dry cider” goes in; it melts and quietly turbocharges the broth during that 5-minute steam without tasting fishy. If the cider runs sharp, I swirl in a small knob of butter off heat to round it out — ever tried that?

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